The Evolution of Personal Care Preservation: A Journey Towards Multifunctionality

At a Tech Focus session at Cosmetorium, Barcelona in October, THOR’s Marta Urizal, Group Technical Director, Personal Care, shared a presentation on the industry’s ‘journey towards multifunctionality’.

Marta explored how preservation has moved beyond being a simple defence against microbial contamination to become a dynamic and integral function in modern formulations. Here are her findings below:

For decades, preservation in personal care was a one-dimensional task: preventing microbial growth to ensure product safety. Traditional preservatives such as parabens, formaldehyde donors, and isothiazolinones were commonplace across the industry, and although necessary and effective at low concentrations, today’s market demands have transformed this paradigm. Regulatory restrictions, consumer preferences for clean label formulations, and marketing driven “free from” lists have made the old approach obsolete.

Preservation still matters though. Microbial contamination poses very real health concerns such as skin infections and irritation, but the strategy has had to evolve. Due to shifting global regulations, the list of approved preservatives has diminished worldwide, whilst consumer demand for mild solutions has only increased. Compatibility, sensory impact, and pH limitations are other such hurdles that traditional preservatives have long been struggling to overcome.

From Preservation to Multifunctionality

The industry is shifting from single purpose preservatives to multifunctional ingredients that deliver more than just antimicrobial protection. These advanced solutions combine preservation with added benefits like improved sensory feel, hydration, and antioxidant support. This evolution is driven by three key factors:

Clean label appeal: One ingredient replacing several simplifies formulations and meets transparency expectations.
Enhanced performance: Multifunctional ingredients improve texture, spreadability, and overall product aesthetics.
Regulatory resilience: Broader spectrum efficacy across pH ranges ensures flexibility in diverse formulations.

It’s not just an adaptation. It’s evolution towards smarter, more sophisticated solutions.

Microcare® Emollient HGD – A Case Study in Innovation

Microcare® Emollient HGD exemplifies this new generation of multifunctional ingredients. Its chemistry blends hydroxyacetophenone with glycol-based emollients, delivering antioxidant power to enhance skin hydration, improved sensorial after-feel, and improved preservation in a single solution. Key technical features include:

INCI Name: 1,2Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Methylpropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aqua, Decylene Glycol.
Formulation versatility: Cold processable, stable across pH 3–10, and compatible with aqueous, surfactant, and emulsion systems.
Applications: Skin care, wet wipes, and hair care treatments.

Multifunctional Benefits

Combines preservative boosting power, emolliency, and antioxidant benefits in one product.
Effective against bacteria, yeast, and mould across a wide pH range.
Enhances sensory experience with a soft, moisturised after-feel.

Sensory Performance

Face masks: Tackiness reduced by up to 40% at 1.5% inclusion, delivering a smoother, lighter texture.
Emulsions: Tackiness reduced by 29%, improving spreadability and application comfort.

Hydration Boost

Face masks: Moisturisation increased by 16% at 0.5% and 25% at 1.5%.
Emulsions: Hydration improved by up to 49%, supporting premium skincare claims.

Antioxidant Protection

Hydroxyacetophenone acts as an effective antioxidant, protecting formulations from oxidative degradation and supporting long-term stability.

Safety and Toxicology

In vitro eye irritation tests (OECD 492B) confirm Microcare® Emollient HGD as non-irritant, implying dermal safety. This makes it suitable for sensitive applications, including facial care and wipes.

Microbiology Efficacy

Challenge tests across multiple formats, including emulsions, surfactant systems, aqueous serums, micellar waters, and wipes; demonstrate broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection. Results show:

≥3 log reduction in bacteria within 7 days
≥2 log reduction in mould and yeast within 14 days This ensures robust preservation even at low use levels (0.5–1.5%).

Why It Matters

Consumers increasingly seek products that are safe, effective, and sensorially pleasing, without compromising on sustainability or transparency. Multifunctional ingredients like Microcare® Emollient HGD enable formulators to meet these expectations while reducing complexity and preservative load. This is not just adaptation; it is evolution towards smarter, more sophisticated solutions.

If you’re on the lookout for efficacious, clean-label, multifunctional personal care ingredients, speak to your local THOR expert or fill out the form below!